Peak Walks A to Z

If we’d thought of it sooner we could have included Beeley in today’s itinerary and then the walk might have been subtitled 

“A Tour of the Chatsworth Estate Villages” ….but that’ll just have to join the list of walk ideas for another day. 

We began by catching the 218 to Baslow and were surprised by the hard frost which had not been forecast but which made for an incredibly beautiful bus ride before we’d even taken a step.

After getting off the bus at Baslow Nether End by the sweet shop on the corner of the car park, we turn back on ourselves and walk along the lane that heads over the bridge and onto the footpath to Chatsworth. 

The bridge over the Bar Brook ( the same stream which we walked by on Big Moor a few weeks ago as part of M for Milthorpe) is under repair so excuse the lack of photo. Maybe that’s not too surprising as it’s definitely been around a while (current bridge 1759, but even before then there was a packhorse bridge here.)

Interestingly this lane and bridge used to be the main turnpike road that led to Chesterfield until it was diverted to the route of the current A629 by one of the Dukes of Devonshire after he’d had the Golden Gates built.

Once over the bridge we turn right past the “chocolate box”thatched cottage  which looks as though it’s been time-travelled into Baslow from somewhere in Thomas Hardy’s Dorset. This also has a long history, parts of it dating from the 17th century. I guess that somehow it has managed to hold on to its thatch whilst over time, other Peak District cottages have lost theirs.

Today we spot some interesting added extras on the roof as we pass by.

We are soon passing through the wheel-chair friendly Cannon Kissing Gate and we’re instantly stunned by the beauty of the park under the magic spell of the frost.

We head straight on along the main footpath passing the pagoda type lodge with the Blue Plaque to Joseph Paxton, gardener and architect, and on past the cricket field.

At Queen Mary’s Bower we head right, crossing over a chilly looking Derwent on Paine’s Bridge and taking the path over to Edensor,  the first of our two estate villages for today.

So it’s not only the turnpike road that the Duke of Devs had rebuilt when it was in their way.

Apparently the original village of Edensor spoiled the view from the great house and so the 4th Duke had the village relocated. The building that’s now the tea room is one of the few remaining original buildings in the village and although initially they hung onto the medieval church, even that was eventually demolished and replaced by the current, larger church of Saint Peter.

Seems a shame but there’s an amusing story that accounts for the quirky styles of the rebuilt village that we’re now walking through. 

When the Duke was presented with a variety of house plans by the architect, ( Joseph Paxton and his young assistant John Robinson) he was apparently unable to decide on a single style. So, on an impulse, he chose one of each, which has resulted in the eclectic mix of Norman Arches, Swiss Cottages, Italian Villas and Mock Tudor that we’re duly spotting today as we walk past.

The road becomes a cart track as we climb up to meet the lane that runs between Bakewell and Pilsley.

It’s usually a great spot for views up here and today is no exception.

We turn right, promptly losing all the height we just gained. At the bottom of the hill we turn right at the T-junction with the main road and then left past the village school designed by Joseph Paxton ( him again!) and into the village of Pilsley, the P of today’s walk.

Our second Chatsworth estate village turns out to have also had a substantial rebuild and expansion by the Chatsworth team, partly in order to accommodate some of those poor old displaced Edensor residents. Indeed there’s a large village green bordered by houses which were built specifically for this purpose.

However the row of buildings which include the Pilsley Inn are clearly much older ( by centuries?) and were part of the old village, here long before the estate.

Facing the pub we turn left along what was once another packhorse route which at one point carried lead from the mines around Monyash all the way to the coast.

The tarmac peters out as does the village and soon the track arrives at a three way junction where we take a right along a very good path bordered on our right by woodland and with views over the fields to our left.

We ignore a finger post about half way down the track although this is actually a short cut taking the corner off the track if you fancied a steeper descent.

Passing through some trees the track crosses a stream before depositing us on the side of the very busy 13 Bends Bakewell Road.

However it’s not too bad as we turn right along the road. There’s a bit of a path along the grass verge and it’s only about 100 meters later that we’re crossing over to follow a very open and pleasant track on the opposite side.

Having spotted an interesting looking ( Chatsworth designed?) barn over on our left

there’s a right fork in the path through some woodland

and then we pick our way through some wet ground over another stream

before climbing uphill towards the village of Hassop.

Home Farm is a bit of a messy one but it’s clear enough where the footpath leads and we spot a few cows having lunch

before we plunge out onto yet another busy road, this time it’s the B6001 which heads from Bakewell to Calver. 

There are a few blind bends to negotiate which adds to the excitement and although we just about manage to register the grandeur of the building opposite

and the somewhat incongruous looking Catholic Church:

…..it’s not until we’re opposite the ( decidedly closed) Old Eyre Arms that we pause to take stock.

There’s actually a lot of interesting things about Hassop and it’s by way of a change today that the grandiose Hassop Hall ( mainly hidden behind a stone wall) has no links whatsoever with the Dukes of Dev or the Cavendish family. Instead, this village is all about the Eyres, another  family with a long history in Derbyshire.

Besides rather obviously explaining the name of the pub, this also explains the unusual church as the Eyres were one of the old Catholic families of the area, amongst other things linked with the grim story of the Padley Martyrs and incidentally with part of the family having lived in North Lees Hall ( featured in our walk for N). And of course the surname Eyre became forever synonymous with a certain plain Jane, thanks to Charlotte Brontë.

It follows that the Eyres were loyalists and its interesting that the hall, now a private hotel and wedding venue was used, thanks to them, as a royalist garrison during the English Civil War giving rise to a number of skirmishes in the area.

We drag ourselves away from this fascinating hot bed of history and take the lane on our right which after the main road is pleasantly free of traffic. We enjoy some splendid views back over to where we’ve walked from.

As we start to gain a bit of height we pass an interesting house on our left and spot it’s called the Old School House. That certainly ties in with the style of the building although it seems a bit away from it all, location wise. But yes, it seems this was probably the Catholic school for 100 pupils which is mentioned in connection with the Hall and the church.

The road gets steeper and veers to the right before straightening up again towards the top of the hill where we take the footpath signed to the left.

Now we’re walking along a low ridge, sometimes in the woods and sometimes on the edge of the trees. There are amazing views on either side either over towards Baslow and The Edges and actually all the way back to Chatsworth where we’ve walked from today,

or on the other side over to Longstone Edge.

And the sun is now keeping us company for yet another beautiful winter walk.

We pass through Bank Wood, cross a lane and then continue on the path through Bramley Wood enjoying the views when we get them

and marvelling at the number of buds on the Rhododendrons when we don’t. So we’re definitely coming back here when it’s Rhododendron time!

The descent into Calver would make an excellent mud-sledging slalom course. The only drawback is we’ve not brought a sledge. Miraculously we both stay upright which just leaves us with a field path to cross

and a few residential looking driveways ( all part of the path)

and then, here we are in Calver. 

We head for the old village cross

and then go left along Folds Lane which takes us onto Sough Lane and along to the crossroads.

However there are doubtless other options for arriving at the same spot since Calver is a fascinating conglomeration of lanes, ginnels and footpaths, most probably a relic of its industrial heritage as a lead mining and mill town.

Right now though we’re firmly focused on the present moment as we’re well aware that our journey home today is courtesy of the 65 bus and there aren’t a lot of them about. As I have mentioned before, at Calver Sough crossroads I always have to think carefully about our choice of bus stop because the last thing you need after a good walk is to find yourself standing at the wrong stop as your bus goes sailing past! 

Happily though we manage to treat ourselves to takeaway drinks ( and cake) from the cafe and have just enough time to devour everything at the ( correct) bus stop before the good old 65 arrives bang on time to take us home. 

Another stunningly beautiful winter walk. We can’t decide whether we’re incredibly lucky or whether it’s just always better when you’re out in the elements than when you’re stuck inside? I guess it’s actually both of the above, but whatever the truth of the matter we very much recommend today’s walk as a massively suitable winter walk or for that matter, any other season of the year. We hope you enjoy it as much as we have.

Transport 

218 from Sheffield to Baslow

65 or 257 home from Calver Sough to Sheffield 

Pubs/Cafes

Various options in Baslow but we’d always recommend The Pavilion Cafe even if it’s not particularly handy in this case.

The Sweet Shop also does hot drinks and is VERY handy for today’s walk.

Edensor’s Tea Cottage is housed in one of the oldest buildings in the village. It used to double up as the Post Office but has gone considerably up market since those days. Find the link in the main text.

Pilsley has its pub ( link in text) and also on the edge of the village is Chatsworth Farm Shop Cafe which has fantastic views if you’re sitting outside ( in summer, not today!)

Hassop Hall is not open to the public in my experience…. I once wandered in, mid hike as someone had told me you could get tea and scones there, only to be politely escorted off the premises 😊

Calver Sough: Cafe 19 at the crossroads has been through various guises but in our opinion is currently very good ( and the shop next door has to be the most splendid Spar Shop ever: well worth a browse!)

The Calver Arms used to be called the Eyre Arms (just to be different!) but has fairly recently, very sensibly changed its name. 

How far?

Around 18k

Route Synopsis 

Baslow, Chatsworth, Edensor, Pilsley, Hassop, Calver.

Should be ok for dogs 

Map

OS White Peak 

https://footpathapp.com/routes/5E95AD75-D46B-4BA2-9707-E84D5297A4EF?units=metric

Slithering our way along icy Sheffield pavements to reach the bus stop it seemed a madcap idea to be heading out to the Peak at all today but actually, once the 272 reached the Hope Valley we could see the paths were clear and the plan to head for Castleton started to seem like a good one after all.

After alighting from the nice warm bus at Castleton bus station we continue straight ahead to the corner of How Lane and then briefly take a right along Millbridge before turning left along the lane which cuts through to the back of the big car park.

We pass some cold looking ducks swimming on the stream known as Peakshole Water which flows down from Peak Cavern.

At the other side of the car park another stream, Odin Sitch, which is no less than the “O”of today’s walk, joins with Peakshole Water. But of course there’s more to our plan than a mere 500 metres walk between the bus and the car park….read on for more details of what turns out to be an easy but perfect winter walk, sheltered, not too muddy and almost ice-free.

We head past the information centre and turn right out of the car park along the road which leads towards the Winnats Pass.

The castle ruins are always imposing but seem to be looking particularly bleak and inhospitable today.

Where the motor road now turns left to head up the pass, we continue right along the old road which used to be the main route to Chapel-en-le-Frith before a great chunk of Mam Tor fell away and took the road with it.

https://www.roads.org.uk/blog/road-slid-away#:~:text=Published%20on%2028%20August%202022,exposed%20plateaux%20and%20sheltered%20gorges.

Nowadays the tarmac road leads to Treak Cliff Cavern and then beyond here reaches a turning circle which is the end of the road for motor vehicles.

It’s a bit of a van-life haven along here at times although there’s not much evidence of that today; maybe it’s too cold?

A National Trust sign on the left of the road marks the way over to Odin Mine but the only way we’d get through the gate today would be to paddle through an enormous puddle. We don’t fancy cold, wet feet for the remainder of the walk so unfortunately we decide to give it a miss. Not that we were planning anything like a bone fide caving expedition, but we had been looking forward to having a nosy in the cave and the gorge.

We will have to come back in the summer.

Odin Mine has the claim to fame of being one of the oldest and longest worked lead mines in the country. It’s thought the Romans mined here for lead and there are written records reaching back to the 13th century. 

In fact, you could say that for anyone who’s interested there’s an absolute “mine” of information available. (Sorry!)

The following links seemed particularly interesting:

https://www.themodernantiquarian.com/site/2895/odin-mine

https://castletonhistorical.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/the-odin-mine.pdf

https://pdmhs.co.uk/MiningHistory/Bulletin%206-4%20-%20Odin%20Mine,%20Castleton,%20Derbyshire.pdf

On the opposite side of the road to the mine there’s the footpath we’ll be following along Odin Sitch down the valley.

First we pass the remains of the crushing wheel, where the ore was crushed and all around us its clear to see  the unnatural shapes of overgrown slag heaps.

A Sitch is a local name for a small stream. Apparently its roots come from the Old Norse language and maybe this chimes in with the use of Odin too as he was a Norse  god? Or, as one of the articles on the mine mentions, another possibility is that Odin was Owd Den ( or old Dane) ….. I guess we’ll never know but I have to admit that we chose Odin Sitch for our O purely on the basis of it being such a great sounding name, whatever it means.

As we descend to the footbridge over the Sitch it’s initially a little underwhelming and we think perhaps the name’s the best bit? But even if it’s not a raging torrent it makes up for it by being a bright orange colour. This is thanks to iron sulfides in the waste from the old mine reacting with water and oxygen and forming iron oxide. It reminds us of a similar orange stream in Ecclesall Woods which I’m sure many of you ( especially owners of dogs who like a paddle) are familiar with. 

The path is excellent as it winds through mounds of overgrown mining debris and we have already spectacular views down the Hope Valley.

It’s possible to follow the Sitch, which incidentally is now crystal clear and a little more substantial, all the way back into Castleton but, since we’ve already walked through the village once today, we choose to turn left instead over the stream.

We’re following the path signed towards Dirty Lane which loops around the village to join Hollowford Road. Here we turn left before forking right at the outdoor activity centre onto Robinlands Lane and continuing, onto the footpath.

This is one of my favourite paths along the Hope Valley and it does not disappoint today. We are surrounded by fabulous views and with such a dramatic sky and lighting, even the same view is changing constantly.

We have to keep stopping to look back at Mam Tor with its little cap of snow and every time we look it’s different. And now I’m ending up with a huge string of Mam Tor photos to edit…. but none of them can come anywhere close to being here; get your boots on and get on the 272 and come and see for yourself!

The path takes us on to Hope via some characterful outbuildings and over the railway.

As we emerge onto the Edale Road we have to choose between left to the Cheshire Cheese or right to the Adventure Cafe. The cafe wins and we actually demolish two pots of tea here amongst other refreshments.

After feeding our faces and slaking our thirst we retrace our steps along Edale Road to where Bowden Lane forks right and crosses over the River Noe.

After this we need the second path on the right which is also signed for Hope Cemetery.

It’s initially a track and then once through the railway tunnel becomes a footpath. We’re still revelling in the views from all directions

and we’re also trying to work out where the splendid mansion we saw perched on the hillside from back before Hope actually is.

It doesn’t seem to be Aston Hall which had been my guess…. maybe it’s Birchfield?….

When the path joins Aston Lane we turn left and approaching the hamlet of Aston we break right onto a path which passes in front of another splendid, if less grand, house and your actual Little Donkey ( no doubt resting after a tough Nativity season.)

We rejoin the lane in time to pass by Aston Hall which although smaller than the one we’ve been looking for is nonetheless very interesting and looks to have a history.

The back lane continues, it’s easy walking which just makes it easier still to drink in the scenery.

Further along we come to the next hamlet of Thornhill with its converted chapel, now a picture framers and, an unexpected high point of the day, a V for Victoria post box!

At the T junction we head left along Carr Lane signed towards Ladybower.

Along Carr Lane on the side of a building we are treated to an accidental ice sculpture which reminds us just how cold it is. Maybe it’s a warning of what’s just around the corner….

Just after this and before a private roadway on the right is a finger post taking us down onto the old railway track.

Aside from the frozen down pipe this is the first ice we’ve encountered since leaving home and although it looks nightmarish as all the steps are completely covered in ice, we manage to make our way through the undergrowth steeply down the side of the path. At the bottom at least we have the gate to hold onto as we skate through to the railway track. Unfortunately this too is sheet ice.

It must have escaped the sun all day and it’s definitely getting colder rather than warmer now. No matter, once again we walk along the edge of the track through the undergrowth and we even get chance to pause and look across the valley to a shadowy Bamford Mill and a sun-soaked Bamford Edge.

Once we get alongside the old Water Board house ( of later years a Quaker community) everything is strangely once more back to normal-going underfoot. 

For some reason I find the paths here confusing so, in case you do too, first we have the Quaker house building on our left as we emerge from the railway track and with the gate to the allotment gardens straight ahead of us.

Then we turn left along the lane, passing the front of the house

and then we turn right through a footpath in the corner of the bend.

This path takes us across the field and then right under the railway line

and out onto the main A6187 just next to Bamford Garden Centre.

We’re just in time for a takeaway coffee from the Wild Kettle which we take with us to the bus shelter at Bamford turn around. 

We don’t even have time to get cold waiting for the bus, partly due to the nice hot coffee and the shelter of the shelter…. But also due to the promptness of the 272 which is soon hurtling us back to the city of Sheff after our first alphabet walk of 2026, and a very good start to the year.

We’ve got a number of ideas for P but we’re trying not to get too excited because we need to see what next week’s weather has in store for us. 

Mind you, here we are being very careful and moderate…. look at this lot climbing The Downfall! Now there’s an adventure.

https://footpathapp.com/routes/8C64954F-68E2-49DE-A9AC-86953566EC06?units=metric

Transport 

272 from Sheffield to Castleton 

272, 257 or train home from Bamford to Sheffield 

Pubs/Cafes

Numerous options in Castleton, we’d probably recommend Three Roofs Cafe or the Old Cheshire Cheese 

Several options in Hope, our favourites mentioned with links in the text 

Bamford 

Wild Kettle 

How far?

Around 16k

Route Synopsis 

Castleton, Broken Road, Odin Mine, Odin Sitch, Dirty Lane, Hope, Aston, Thornhill, Bamford.

Dogs?

Yes….maybe a chance of orange paws?!

Map

OS Dark Peak 

Today we start our walk from Miller & Carter at Park Head.

The buses that travel this far along Ecclesall Road from town include the 81, 272, 65 or 218.

As we alight, we make our first and only encounter of the day with a bull….this is the kind of bull we’re both very happy to make an acquaintance with. 

We walk down the first part of Abbey Lane until we cross over to the Rising Sun pub. If it was later in the day this is a good place for an actual pot of tea, would you believe?

And it’s definitely not the ruin of either of us poor girls by the way …..but of course it’s not; the Rising Sun of the song was in New Orleans and we’re about to walk through Whirlow. 

If you just think of Whirlow as a fairly recent up-market suburb then maybe you should think again as here and there on this first section of our walk are tantalising glimpses of old Whirlow and, as archeology groups have discovered, some of it is very old indeed.

As we walk up Little Common Lane we say a quick hello to St Luke’s; such an amazing Sheffield institution that continues to do so much for so many people when the chips are down.

The history of Clifford House, now part of St Luke’s is well worth a read and also provides a general insight into the area.

As we cross Ecclesall Road and continue along Whirlow Lane it’s easy to imagine the lane as it would have been prior to the building of the turnpike road ( now Ecclesall Road). Continuing up hill and around a corner to the left we see further dwelling houses and old farm buildings that have obviously been around for centuries.

At the T junction with Broad Elms Drive we turn left towards Whirlow Hall Farm.

We’ve been walking for less than half an hour and here’s the second amazing Sheffield institution of the day. 

We take the lane through the farm yard

and at the top we turn left onto an atmospheric old trackway known as Fenny Lane

before taking the first stile on our right over the field (next to the vineyard no less, although it’s not looking very Mediterranean today)

to where a further stile takes us onto a descending path through the woods to join the main path up the Limb Valley.

https://www.archaeologicalresearchservices.com/Whirlow%20Heritage%20Trial.pdf

There’s so much history here…..archeology groups have found evidence of a Roman settlement at Whirlow and it’s thought to have been pre-dated by an Iron Age settlement even earlier still.

The high vantage point of the area near the farm must have been of strategic importance and this sheltered valley of the Limb Brook would have been handy for sheltering livestock.

The name Limb itself is probably linked to the word Limit (rather than a body part!) and it’s thought that the brook was the border between the ancient kingdoms of Mercia and Northumbria before also becoming part of the border between Yorkshire and Derbyshire later, for many years.

Part way along the path the trees are especially atmospheric, after which the woods gradually give way to smaller trees and scrub as we climb up towards the top of the valley.  

Before the path ends at a junction with Sheephill Road we pass an area of old coal mining debris on our right and it’s fascinating to think how many changes this, now rural, landscape has been through.

We turn left briefly along Sheephill Road (although it would be possible here to turn right and pop into the Norfolk Arms for refreshment if required) and then branch off right onto the car parking area at the beginning of the path over Houndkirk Moor.

Then we quickly branch off right onto the path between the conifers, through Lady Cannings Plantation.

This is part of the mountain bike circuit known as Cooking on Gas which must have introduced thousands of people into mountain biking since it was set up in 2017. Its a great example of what can be done when different groups partner up ( Sheffield Council, Ride Sheffield and the Go Outdoors outdoor gear shop, for example) although, due to it’s popularity, it’s taken so much hammer since being established that there’s currently a big crowd funding initiative underway to try to get some major repairs done.

We keep on the main path that heads straight up through the plantation and pop out of the trees at the top where we notice the weather is beginning to pick up.

We head right along the track which meets the Ringinglow to Hathersage Road and cross straight over to continue along the open moorland path on the opposite side of the road. 

We think the views of Sheffield from here are some of best there are and it’s great that today is now managing to give us some vistas after a wet and gloomy start, the haziness just adds to the effect.

Ringinglow itself is a rather lumpy and bumpy affair ( the moor not the village) and this is mainly due to the remains of more mines and quarries although it’s thought there could be a bit more pre history thrown in for good measure.

The route finding just needs a little care as we keep straight on past the white posts

and then straight on again at the small footpath marker,

taking care not to not veer off to the right onto the other path.

We head through some old quarries in a roundabout kind of way but keep our sights on Brown Edge Farm which can be clearly seen straight ahead. Once onto a grassier area it’s easy enough to spot the way over to the stile which leads onto the footpath through the farm.

Heading through the next gate we just keep on through the main stock yard,

pausing to take a quick photo of an inquisitive cow,

and then follow the driveway down to where it meets Fulwood Lane, enjoying yet more splendid views ahead.

We walk left along the lane and just as we pass Knoll Top Farm on our right we take the path signed off to the left, through yet more evidence of old industrial activity.

The path turns to the right and then meets a  broader track which we  cross at right angles and climb a stile to follow the path down the wall side to join Brown Hills Lane.

We head left along the lane for a few hundred metres and then keep straight on through the very obvious bright blue water board gate.

This path will lead us all the way around the three reservoirs that make up Redmires.

By now we can hardly believe our luck YET AGAIN with the weather and the combination of the sun and the stillness makes for some stunning reflections on the water.

The path around the resrs is imprinted on my memory as a wet and boggy one but, probably because I’ve been avoiding it for a while on this basis, I’m in for a very pleasant surprise with several stretches of stone flagging making life a lot easier than it used to be.

We’re soon at the bottom of the track that will take us up to Stanage Pole

and as I notice some more stone flags, this time of the very old variety, I recall a book I read about The Long Causeway, which attempts to trace the origins of this path as an old pack horse route all the way out from Sheffield town centre to Hathersage.

There’s a disputed theory that this is also the course of a much older Roman route way which might have led from Templeborough ( Rotherham) to Navio ( Brough), either way, we’re definitely not the first people to have walked up here.

And, if it’s views you’re after the 360 degree panorama from the pole takes some beating.

Once past the pole we only continue a little further along the Causeway because we need to drop down to the left below the Edge and onto the path through Stanage plantation.

Besides offering spectacular views back up to the rocks this also emerges conveniently next to a toilet block. 

The path continues through the woods below the toilets

and hey presto, here we are at today’s N; North Lees Hall.

What an amazing building…we have to confess to being nuts about the Brontës so it’s off to a good start as the inspiration for Rochester’s house in Jane Eyre.

Now owned and rented out by English Heritage I was once lucky enough to visit here on an English Heritage open day and even got to pace back and forth across the roof re-imagining the epic of the fire and Bertha’s death.

But there’s a load more history to this place and its location surely makes it a striking building to visit whatever your interests.

We’re very happy to have chosen it as our N.

The fun’s not all over yet though as we continue on our way towards Hathersage via the footpath at the bottom of the drive to North Lees , around the back of Cowclose Farm and finishing with a climb up to Hathersage church ( up a steep bank that’s part of an ancient Norman earthwork known as Camp Green) and featuring a passing visit to Little John’s Grave before we head to the Pool Cafe for our refreshment.

we are returning to Sheffield by train but buses are another possibility with the 272 heading into town via Fox House or the 257 which heads into the city along the Manchester Road.

We have thoroughly enjoyed this walk and heartily recommend it to you all.

Transport 

81, 272, 65 or 218 from Sheffield to Park Head

Train, 272 or 257 from Hathersage to Sheffield 

Pubs/Cafes

Rising Sun

Whirlow Hall Farm cafe 

Norfolk Arms

Pool Cafe Hathersage 

How far?

Around 20k

Route Synopsis 

Park Head, Whirlow, Ringinglow, Redmires Reservoirs, Stanage Pole, North Lees Hall and Hathersage 

Dogs?

Yes….we saw lots of them today!

Map

OS Dark Peak 

https://footpathapp.com/routes/F1D0987F-C172-44D0-BAC1-07DD71D5EB72?units=metric

Today we start by catching the 81 to Dore. Dore is the southern terminus of the bus route and we get off at the last stop which is opposite the Co-op.

We walk back along Devonshire Terrace Road, past the garage on the corner and take a right along Church Lane where we soon pass the church.

The church has recently had a makeover and is looking very smart. Originally it was built by Richard Furness who seems to have had his finger in lots of pies back in the late 18th/early 19th centuries.

Although born in Eyam apparently he was the local school master here in Dore, not to mention also being the doctor, surgeon and vicar besides drawing up the plans for the church.

His life story is certainly a colourful one.

We pass onwards along Church Lane and after the junction with Furniss Avenue ( different spelling, different guy?) we briefly cross over to read a plaque about one of the ancient village greens of Dore.

The Dore Village Society has done a lot of local historical research on the area and there’s even a village trail if you want to find out more.

Part way along, Church Lane changes it’s name to Old Hay Lane and just before the road turns sharply to the left we continue straight on, ignoring the driveway to Broadstorth Farm

and clambering over a stile to be rewarded with instant views of Totley Moss and Blacka Moor.

The path runs down the field parallel to the wall and parallel to Old Hay Lane. It’s probably safer than continuing on the road which has by now become very narrow and like a sunken hollow way, ( which I think means it has to be a VERY Old Hay Lane indeed.)

At the bottom of the field we climb another stile and cross the driveway leading to Avenue Farm to a small gate

which leads us down steps and over a stream, Blacka Dyke (or Old Hay Brook?)

We turn right past some buildings which used to be part of a mill and just when it looks as though we’re going to arrive at someone’s front door

we do a left and a little dog leg onto a field path with views of the open moorland once more.

At the end of the field path we pass some more buildings

and at the lane we turn briefly right and then left along Lane Head.

Now we’re looking out for Moss Road on our right, which will take us up onto the moor.

We have been incredibly lucky with the weather yet again and as we gain height the views back over Abbeydale and towards Sheffield are spectacular.

The lane turns left and becomes a track after a drive straight ahead leads to the remote residence of Bolehill Lodge, originally built as a gamekeeper’s lodge but with obvious references to lead smelting living on in its name.

We climb a bit more and then we’re at the gate onto the open moor.

We go through the gate and keep straight ahead, ignoring the first path which is almost immediately on our left. 

However as we walk we are looking out for the next path to the left which initially is not as clear as the main track across the moor.

Today a dog walker conveniently shows the way. If you find yourself dropping down to a footbridge retrace your steps, you have turned off too soon! Keep climbing up a little further….

It’s a wet patch of moor at the best of times but we manage to pick our way through without getting a boot full and once past the massive cairn over to our left on Brown Edge the views ahead open up and the path becomes firmer under foot.

There’s been much speculation about the cairn with suggestions that it might be prehistoric in origin, aligning with the sun and Whirlow and all manner of theories. In fairness there does appear to be evidence of an ancient stone circle nearby.

However I can’t help enjoying the story of the bored 1980s college student having built it whilst living in (now demolished) student accommodation in Totley.

The track meets the busy Owler Bar to Fox House B6054 by an enclosure which I think is something to do with the Gas Board and we cross straight over to the path opposite as we begin our walk across Big Moor. 

The footpath arrows point right

but we plunge straight ahead over some more wet stuff. Surprisingly though, compared with some of my visits to Big Moor it’s not too bad and we’re soon passing another isolated dwelling on our right, Bar Brook Cottage. 

Currently an HQ for the Eastern Moors Partnership I imagine this was originally a Water Board construction as are many of the paths we’re following today. easternmoorshistoryandarcheology.wordpress.com

We cross straight over the tarmac driveway to the house and head straight on once again.

By now we’re on a well drained track which makes for delightful walking and everything near and far looks so beautiful today in the bright light of the low winter sunshine.

We pass the little reservoir which these days is often frequented by wild swimmers but there’s no one braving the elements today.

There’s an odd sculpture that we feel obliged to take a photo of and then we are onto the edge of the area of the moor which is well known for its prehistoric significance.

Over to our left we spot a couple of stone circles without even leaving the path but if you’re interested and have a few hours to spare there’s a lot more to be seen further off piste.

Over to our right on the other side of the stream we can see the plateaued area known as Swines Sty which is reputedly the site of an ancient neolithic settlement

and which involves even rougher walking and is even further off piste if you’re really intent on rediscovering the distant past.

If you’re happy just sticking to the path perhaps it’s sufficient to say that one of the archeological curiosities of the moor is how it seems as though the living quarters are situated on one side of Bar Brook while the burial sites and stone circles are on the other. 

Pondering such things we come to the end of the track and have to move swiftly back into the 21st century in order to nip across the busy A621 Sheffield to Baslow Road

but straight opposite we’re immediately back on another good track which takes us to Ramsley reservoir and then onto Fox Lane.

We turn left along the lane which is quiet enough today and then at the T junction we head straight on through the trees with Shillito Woods car park above us on our right.

Now there’s also a footpath option at the T junction ( through the white gate) which I’ve always taken previously but although it can be very pretty in the Spring I also remember it regularly being a bit of a mud-fest so today we’re staying on the tarmac instead.

This choice turns out to be a good one because for a start we only see one car the whole time but more importantly due to being elevated as opposed to being on the path in the valley bottom, we get some cracking views. In fact we even reckon we can see part of our route to Ingmanthorpe from last month’s walk for I.

In the opposite direction we can see back over towards Brown Edge and the cairn, Totley Moss and Big Moor, where we were just a few hours ago.

Our road heads steeply downhill to join the main road ( the B6051) through the Cordwell Valley but we only follow this briefly to the right before we turn right again along the lane towards Unthank.

We used Unthank for our U last time we went through the alphabet but we’ve not been along here since. Nothing looks to have changed though as we take the path on our left just before the few buildings of the hamlet begin, and head through the fields to Milthorpe.

It’s a great way to approach the village and so much better than driving through it on the B road. With the stream below us on our left, our path then joins a back lane which we follow left as it leads us down to a ford and footbridge and past some of the lovely old buildings of Milthorpe including the old Mill, all tucked away from the main thoroughfare.

At the T junction with the main road we turn left to the Royal Oak where we are looking forward to sharing a cheese board!

It’s a lovely old pub and the food is unusual and amazing. The portions are huge and the prices are very fair. We have been here before and it’s every bit as good as we remember it. We spend most of our lunch break trying to think of ways to include Milthorpe in the rest of the alphabet walks! 

Brim full of cheese ( and with some in our packs for later) we head back along the road to the phone box and war memorial and turn left uphill.

After a few hundred metres there are two footpath signs to the left.

Whereas the footpath leads straight ahead through a gate we opt for the Bridleway on the left which crosses over another stream and then winds its way prettily up the hill to Holmesfield.

On emerging from the path onto another lane we turn right

and then right again as we meet the main road, the B6054.

After a few minutes we’re at The Angel pub where we turn left past the rather quaint millennium garden and onto a path through woodland.

At the end of the path we keep straight ahead on the tarmac road

until we reach the footpath on our left which circumnavigates the fiercely private Woodthorpe Hall.

The path is obvious and once back into the open we head downhill with more great moorland views in the now failing winter light

to cross over Totley Brook after only a brief tangle with mud.

Once across the bridge it’s important to head straight on up the bank and straight on again at a footpath sign in order to get to the stile which will take us along a field path and into old Totley.

As the buildings begin we pass Totley Old Hall and the old school ( which looks like it’s having a makeover) the church down to our right and some lovely old cottages mingling in with newer builds. 

With the old Fleur de Lys pub ( now flats) on our left we head across the crossing and turn right for the bus stop just past the Cross Scythes ( still a pub) and the end of a very satisfying walk.

There’s a choice of buses back to Sheffield from here; either the 97 or the 218, which is always a good thing and fine by us.

However you could easily make this into a circular walk by continuing down Hillfoot Road past The Crown and back onto Old Hay Lane and Dore, although by so doing you would be reducing your choice of buses as the only bus to serve Dore village is the 81.

Counting our blessings with the weather gods having given us yet another amazing day out we’re now looking forward to what next week will bring us. 

Transport 

81 to Dore

97 or 218 from Totley Cross Scythes to Sheffield 

Pubs/Cafes

Dore Cafe

Royal Oak, Milthorpe 

The Angel, Holmesfield 

The Cross Scythes, Totley

How far?

Around 19k

Route Synopsis 

Dore, Totley Moor, Big Moor, Ramsley Reservoir, Shillito Woods, Fox Lane, Unthank, Milthorpe, Holmesfield, Totley 

Dogs?

Probably okay although there have been problems with dogs and highland cattle on Totley Moor.

Map

OS White Peak and a little bit of Google Maps 

https://footpathapp.com/routes/715D047C-4581-4998-9DAF-FCFFD52C5AF7?units=metric

This week, whilst we felt relieved to have successfully survived the scarcities of I, J and K, we were now faced with a positive glut of Ls to choose from…. and so, we got greedy and chose lots of them!

Little Longstone had to be a priority as it’s already a two-for-the-price-of-one opportunity and not surprisingly, that led to the inclusion of nearby Longstone Moor. Originally, we’d optimistically included the village of Litton before our cafe stop but in reality tea and cake ( and thoughts of bus times home) won out, although we still finished the day in style with another buy-one-get-one-free and this time it was Lover’s Leap.

Taking the 218 towards Bakewell we alighted at Pineapple Farm which is the stop just before the housing of Bakewell begins. It’s rather a perilous one for the driver so if you ( or the driver) miss it, don’t panic, just get off at the next stop and back track to where the road crosses over the Monsal Trail.

Crossing the road is another peril but once over there’s a stile and steps down by the side of the bridge and onto the trail.

We enjoy getting a reasonable pace going along here as it’s easy walking and will help to warm us up, on this spectacularly bright and clear but cold November day.

We’re soon whizzing past Hassop Station Cafe and then Quackers at Thornbridge without any slackening off although both are cafes we’re very fond of and would heartily recommend.

Shortly after the old Thornbridge station there’s a crossroads of paths across the trail with the one on the left heading towards Ashford and ours on the right heading for Little Longstone.

We follow a field path without too much mud today, to emerge at the road through the village just down the hill from The Packhorse pub. We’re almost opposite the old Manor House stables which have been stylishly refurbished as modern day holiday lets, (with castellations!)

We turn right along the road and pass Stocks House next to the village stocks, both stocks and house dating from around the 17th century,  followed by the very impressive ( also 17th century) Manor House itself.

For a small village, it feels like Little Longstone has a lot of splendid buildings and we certainly enjoy their beauty and individuality as we pass by them today.

Later when I decide to find out more about the history of the place I incidentally discover what might also be a link to its name…

The “Longsdon” family has been associated with the village since the 13th century, with their wealth increasing in the 17th century through involvement in the wool and cotton trades. 

Aha! 

And, as is so often the case in Derbyshire, the village’s prosperity was also linked to the lead-mining industry that flourished here and of which we’ll soon see plenty of evidence once we’re heading over the moor.

We turn off Butts Road at the first finger post on our left

and head along a field path

which unexpectedly suddenly reveals splendid views of Beeley Moor, part of last week’s walk; K for Kelstedge.

After admiring some highland cattle from the safe side of an electric fence we head past Dale Farm and it’s out-buildings on a farm track which takes us to Moor Road, the lane that leads up to Longstone Edge from Great Longstone.

I must just point out that this route omits the inclusion of Great Longstone despite its being another very interesting spot because we agreed it would not count as an L. That’s a penalty for our being so purist! (But maybe the silver lining is we’ve got a good G lined up there for next time?)

Moor Road is used for an annual cycling hill climb event where various categories of cyclists pit themselves against the 2.2km uphill climb with an average gradient of over 7%. It’s great to see ( and probably great to participate if cycling hill-climbs is your thing) with a great atmosphere and lots of positive support.

We head uphill ( thankfully not on our bikes!) and at the sharp right hand corner we head straight ahead onto a footpath through some trees and then up steps as we climb ever more steeply up onto Longstone Moor.

Almost immediately we pass an overgrown ruin which I assume is a relic of the lead mining days and this is followed by numerous other lumps and bumps for the next couple of hours of our walk.

As we’ve often remarked it’s unreal especially on a beautifully clear day like today, to think of our modern day rural ramblings taking place on the same ground that was once a hotbed of industrialisation.

The views back through the trees are spectacular. In particular we spot the flat top of Fin Cop the Iron Age hill settlement, looking quite different from this angle to when we looked over to it on our C is for Chelmorton walk many weeks ago, back near the beginning of this alphabet.

Once we’re through the gate and onto the moor the hill is almost done and then, next thing, we are rewarded with amazing views stretching ahead of us towards Mam Tor and Kinder. We feel as though we can see forever on this perfect day for enjoying the Peak in all its glory.

The moorland path is a delight too; no disappearing acts like last week’s Beeley experience, and useful signs where you need them.

Longstone Moor is not just any old L, it’s a beauty and has to be one of the top places for views in all of the Peak District.

On days like this I want to walk all the paths at once but we settle for heading straight ahead and then when we reach a wall on the boundary of the moor we turn left following the path along the wall side.

The path crosses a lane

and then we walk through brighter-than-bright-green grazing pasture.

We even have a laugh re-enacting the Genesis video from “I Can’t Dance” with our shadows until we reach the road just uphill of the village of Wardlow. 

Turning right and heading down towards the village we are rapidly calculating kms/per hour, bus times and daylight hours and reluctantly we decide that today we’ll not be including the village of Litton in our litany of Ls.

We solemnly declare that we will repeat this walk unabridged sometime next Spring or Summer when the days are longer …and then we head straight down the road to Yondermans Cafe at Wardlow Mires ( is that what it was really all about, I hear you wonder?)

Just for anyone who fancies it, the Litton Loop as we might call it, would be added onto today’s walk by turning left about a quarter of the way through the village of Wardlow along a track which suddenly gives onto a stunning surprise view down into Cressbrook Dale, Peters Stone, Tansley Dale and ahead, the aforementioned Litton. You’ll need to head to the right dropping down into the valley bottom and then follow the winding path opposite up Tansley Dale with a couple of track/field path options leading you into the village of Litton.

Litton has a community shop and cafe and there’s also the Red Lion if you fancy something stronger. Both are situated to the left of the point at which you will reach the Main Street. 

To exit the village follow back along the road which is known as Mires Lane out of the village and then look for a path on your right which will lead you down the opposite side of the valley to Peter’s Stone and after a short stretch along the main road you will be back at Yondermans cafe and en route once again.

Yondermans is a not to be missed experience which has morphed over the years from an old style transport cafe to a favourite motorcycle stop off and now seems to be covering all bases for all comers ( eg everything from bacon butties to pumpkin soup.)

I’ve never known it not to be open and it’s often bursting at the seams so I guess that says something. Curiously I feel that over time the size of the sausage rolls and cakes is growing whilst the size of their mugs of tea  is shrinking. Not sure what that says, except that today I could have easily done with two mugs.

Back outside after our cafe stop, now we really feel the cold as we’re waiting to cross the busy A623. We need to get moving again.

The footpath is directly opposite and starts through the muddy stock yard of the farm.

There are footpath signs scrawled on the farm buildings so you can’t go wrong and the path is soon back on the green pastures of this typical limestone scenery.

We aim straight ahead initially, for the grand farmhouse known as Stanley House, another listed building, but in the last field before the house, since it’s only grazing land, we take a diagonal across to the stile in the top right corner just to save walking two sides of the field.

Now we’re heading across a steeplechase of stiles and fields whilst enjoying even more views as we go. We’re heading towards Brosterfield Farm which is nowadays another splendid looking holiday refurb. I think this one does weddings too ( so be prepared to feel somewhat under dressed if you happen to be strolling by at the same time as the wedding party.)

The path gives onto a lane at the end of which is a cattle grid and a kind of ranch archway with the name of the farm overhead. Reminds me of something from an American Western film set. 

We’re very near a road junction so we first need to turn left for a few paces and then right in order to get onto the next lane.

We pass a couple of houses and then we turn left onto a bridle way immediately before the junction with the main road ( the A623 again)

This Bridleway is a favourite route of ours to Eyam as for the most part it’s easy underfoot and allows plenty of time to look around at the landscape.

We nod towards The Barrel up on Bretton Edge, its whitewashed frontage always a good landmark and as the track heads into Eyam it’s well signed and straightforward. We head through a small housing estate and then right along the road past the church. We’re impressed by the Christmas deer up above the door of the Mechanics Institute, it must have been fun getting them up there.

We realise we’ve been this way before on a previous alphabet walk ( G is for Grindleford also passes through Eyam) but this time at the triangle near the bus shelter we now head in a different direction as we head along the lane known as Lydgate.

We pass the Lydgate graves and then keep straight on to the footpath ( not the Bridleway on the left) that takes us over the top of Lover’s Leap and to the famous Boundary stone.

The Lover’s Leap story is a favourite Derbyshire tale of Hannah a jilted lover who decides to throw herself off the cliff behind us but who is saved by her long skirts getting caught in the trees and acting like a parachute.

Back in the day, this tale also gave its name to another transport cafe down on the main road in Stoney Middleton, (now a restaurant), which I still mourn the departure of. In my memory, the mugs of tea there used to be enormous….

Anyway, Lover’s Leap is today’s final L ( well double L actually) and having paused to read the information board, all that remains is for us to decide on our route to Calver Sough crossroads and the bus home.

There’s a lovely back way from Stoney to Calver Sough avoiding the road but I’m afraid to say that we don’t take it today as we’re thinking we’d better focus on getting transport home.

Actually it would be great to do S for Stoney Middleton when we get that far as it’s such a fascinating village and then we could come back and do the whole area justice.

As it is today we just peg along the main road ( the A623 AGAIN!) which is very busy but at least has a pavement all the way to the crossroads.

I always find catching the bus from Calver Sough a bit confusing because there are different stops for different buses and of course, just to complicate things further, buses that go to different parts of Sheffield.

We end up catching a Bakewell bound 257 to Baslow from where we eventually pick up the usual 218 to get home.

However it would be possible to catch an opposite direction 257 from here to Sheffield if that takes you nearer to home.

Yet another option, also with its own different stop at the crossroads, (although beware, it is infrequent) , is the 65 to Sheffield.

As a final thought I guess another option if you have made faster progress than we have today would be to walk through Calver village to Curbar and then follow the Derwent Valley Heritage Trail footpath from there to Baslow and catch the 218.

So many possibilities to choose from, I will let you work it out!

Well today has been a spectacular one for views and as always the Peak District is so full of interest. We’ve been very lucky with the weather and we’ll hold onto today in our memories because at this end of the year, we might not see anything to match today again in a while.

See you next week for M.

Transport 

218 from Sheffield to edge of Bakewell 

Buses back from Calver Sough: 257 or 65

Or 257 to Baslow and then the 218

Pubs/Cafes

Yondermans 

How far?

Around 18k

Route Synopsis 

Monsal Trail, Little Longstone, Longstone Moor, Wardlow, Wardlow Mires, Stanley House, Brosterfield Farm, Eyam, Stoney Middleton, Calver Sough

Dogs?

Sheep but no cows.

There were a number of stiles 

Map

OS White Peak

https://footpathapp.com/routes/639B0111-961F-44BE-B6F3-CEF891382A00?units=metric

https://footpathapp.com/routes/16931398-BDC0-4E4A-BA70-06C43F57F300?units=metric

Today’s walk starts from the small hamlet of Kelstedge which lies on the A632 Chesterfield to Matlock Road, and is part of the parish of Ashover.

Since the X17 stops here on its way between Barnsley and Wirksworth we thought it would make for a handy “K” walk. It’s fair to say that “K” has proved to be another letter of the alphabet with a fairly limited number of places for us to choose from.

The journey from Sheffield via Chesterfield passes quickly enough and soon we alight near The Kelstedge pub surprised that it’s not raining (yet).

I’m intrigued by the place name Kelstedge as it somehow sounds ancient but unfortunately I’ve not been able to find a definitive origin yet.

Maybe it was Kel’s homestead or Kel’s pool or even Kel’s ladder (?) but in lieu of any expert information it looks like we’ll just have to be content with not knowing.

It’s quite busy on the A633 so our walk starts with a bit of a sprint to get over the road. Then off we set along Vernon Lane which turns out to have a number of interesting old houses along it before it becomes a footpath. 

We’re soon descending to a footbridge over a stream just where it joins with another to become the River Amber ( of Ambergate and Amber Valley fame)

Whilst the main track appears to head straight on we take the right fork up some steps and past a seat straight out of Lord of the Rings, soon emerging onto a lane where we turn left.

There seems to be a glut of footpaths and a criss-cross of back lanes around here which makes me think this could be another interesting walking area outside of the Peak National Park and therefore somewhat less trodden.

I’ve also noticed over the many years I’ve been walking, that numerous paths and lanes can be an indication of an area having had an industrial or otherwise more significant past than it currently has.

Later I discovered this was indeed the case here….

Soon after our left turn, a road forks off to the right

but we continue straight on along Eaton Lane in order to take a left at the next junction and then the path to the right of Prestedge Farm ( there’s that “stedge” suffix again…. maybe Priest’s homestead?… who knows?)

The track turns out to be a drive to Whitfield Farm but just at the right angled left turn there’s a pathway straight ahead along the side of a wood and through an old stone squeeze stile.

The next lane we come to is Hodge Lane. We turn left and continue to follow the tarmac ignoring various paths on either side and heading straight ahead. Gaining height we have some magnificent views behind and once again congratulate ourselves on the weather holding off.

Turning back to the direction of our walk, we notice the sky has suddenly gone rather dark and as we arrive at the T Junction with the B5057 we have a brief stop to don various waterproofs.

This seems to do the trick as we really only get a bit of a shower before things brighten up again.

We’re not far now from Darwin Forest Country Park which has a number of nicely presented walk leaflets available online so I’ve been hoping this would have a positive knock-on effect on the definition of our next path. However as we clamber over the stile by the finger post it would seem I was hoping in vain.

There’s absolutely no sign of a path but we walk across the field on the diagonal anyway and luckily we can soon see there’s an official way out in the far corner taking us over yet another lane and onto yet another signed and stiled but entirely undefined path and taking yet another diagonal across a field.

Then in the next field ( no sign of a bull) we keep the wall on our right and in the far corner we find a stream and some rough heaps of rocks and then a very wet and boggy patch over to the next gate.

Funnily enough once through here we are on better defined territory ( perhaps our route is coinciding with a Country Park walk leaflet?)

and we might actually be walking along part of the perimeter of the park as we follow the path along the wall side towards the buildings of Darley Forest Grange.

Our path crosses directly over Flash Lane

and through the small but intriguingly named Upper Dogkennel Plantation

before another stile brings us quite suddenly out onto the wildness of Beeley Moor.

The path is a little wet underfoot but clear and easy enough to follow and very dramatic.

It’s exhilarating to be out on the open moorland and a complete contrast to the first part of the walk.

We’re soon at the junction with the rather busy Chesterfield/Rowsley Road but there’s a bit of a grass verge which we follow left crossing the top of the pleasant looking Bent Lane which descends towards Darley Dale. 

Just past this junction we spot a gate with an access sign over the other side of the main road which we hope will lead us further over Beeley Moor.

Initially this looks like my perfect kind of path; an easy going, green trackway through wild peat moorland, but after about 5 minutes of skirting around what looks like old quarry or mine workings, the track reduces to a narrow path. This begins to look suspiciously more and more like a sheep trod and finally fizzles out into thick bracken….or maybe we just lose it?

However the lack of path is definitely compensated for by the incredible views which are opening up around us and the sensational lighting and autumn colours.

We can see over to Stanton Moor, we can see Over Haddon. The forested hillside between the Derwent and the Wye is a magnificent patchwork of colour bordered by the bright green of the high pastures behind Carlton Lees. It’s a fantastic view point and apart from the sheer beauty of it , this is also handy for working out where we are, or might be!

We seem to have walked more or less north west across the moor and have arrived at further signs of what looks like old quarrying. I idly suggest all these old quarries might have something to do with getting stone for building Chatsworth House, which checking things out later turns out to be a pretty good guess if Wikipedia is anything to go by:

“Three hundred years ago coal was mined on Beeley Moor for lead-smelting and for local homes. Chatsworth House was built from the high quality gritstone quarried on the moor. Beeley Moor was also renowned for grouse shooting.”

Also see the following link for information on the coal mining on the moor including fascinating diary entries which say so much about daily life in this area in a very different time.

We scramble down the bank near the stones, making our way through the bracken and head for the intake wall.

Alongside this we find another ( or continuation of the same?) path and follow it to the right.

I can see the intake wall on the map and the plan is to follow it until we hit the road which heads down into Beeley village.

It’s rough walking but not too strenuous although we get continuous views of a delightful looking footpath which we’re running parallel with a few hundred metres the other side of the wall. It’s tantalisingly inaccessible but if we’d followed a lower level valley side route avoiding the moor we’d probably have missed those stunning views. That’s what we tell ourselves anyway as we clamber along.

Eventually we can see the road we’re heading for and after a patch of difficult wet ground we get to a battered old gate which gives us our way out.

Perhaps if we’d kept to a higher point on the moor we might have found another or easier way….maybe we’ll have a look at doing that another day… but for now we’re happy with having crossed the moor and even more happy to be back on firmer ground with a cafe calling us downhill into Beeley.

Turning left along the road, we start to descend when, a few moments later, we think our plans have been thwarted. Ahead it looks as though the road is completely blocked off. 

But although there’s absolutely no way down for motor traffic due to a landslip partway down the road ( maybe not such firm ground afterall?)  for pedestrians it’s easily passable and we even meet a cyclist coming up the other way; obviously a hill lover!

The road leads us down into the Chatsworth estate village of Beeley with its pub and Old Smithy cafe which is where we’re  now heading with a vengeance as the heavens have begun to open.

The cafe is quite large and also very popular as all things Chatsworth tend to be. We’re pleased to get a table and a proper pot of tea.

We don’t want to stop for too long as we’re always aware of bus times but as we step back outside it’s like stepping under an ice-cold power shower! 

Undeterred we head up the road past the old chapel and then past the delightful looking church

and the very interesting building of the old vicarage

before we cross over the main road and get onto the path which takes us to the bridge at Carlton Lees.

There’s plenty of water swirling down the Derwent as we squelch our way along the river path through the park.

The parkland of Chatsworth is like a third contrast of our walk after the woodland paths and lanes in Part 1 and the wild moors of Part 2.

However we’re too wet to be appreciating the aesthetics of the walk at the moment especially when we see a bus in the distance meandering its way towards the House from Edensor and it’s obvious we’re not going to make it.

We console ourselves with the fact that it could just as easily be the 218 from Sheffield  as the one from Bakewell and when we get to Queen Mary’s Bower we decide to just keep on through the park to Baslow in the hope of intercepting the school bus, rather than messing around trying to catch a bus from the stop up at the House.

It’s raining like Noah’s flood and when we make it to Baslow we take it in turns to stand in the shelter or get even wetter at the bus stop. I’ve seen the bus go straight past before now if no one’s standing at the stop so we think it’s an inconvenience worth enduring.

Politely late, the 218 finally comes along, full of noisy Lady Manners school kids who’ve obviously not had enough outdoor playtime today. We’re now not just soaking wet but also in danger of going deaf from the racket! Only joking, we love the school bus because it’s always late but never cancelled. It’s generally great entertainment to see the kids wearing off their pent up energy after a day at school, doing all kinds of daft things and then saying thank you so nicely to the driver when they get off.

One way or another it feels like we’ve had quite an adventure. Would I recommend this walk? Yes, I would…. just be prepared for making it up yourself over the moor.

Alternatively there are numerous paths and lanes which could be investigated for other options dropping down into the Derwent Valley sooner than Beeley.

Transport 

X17 from Sheffield to Kelstedge

218 from Baslow to Sheffield 

Pubs/Cafes

The Kelstedge Inn

The Foresters bar and restaurant Darwin Forest Country Park 

The Beeley Inn

The Old Smithy cafe Beeley

How far?

Around 18k

Route Synopsis 

Kelstedge- Hodge Lane- Darwin Forest Grange- Beeley Moor-Beeley-Chatsworth Park

Dogs?

Today we encountered no livestock. (In fact the only human being we encountered all day was the lone cyclist.)

There were a few stiles 

Map

OS White Peak

https://footpathapp.com/routes/9DC3AF0E-4AB4-4ECC-9D4C-D434AC154BFC?units=metric

Finding an “I” for last week’s walk was a challenge but today’s “J” was a no-brainer. 

It had to be Jacob’s Ladder because, apart from Johnnygate, ( which would have been almost duplicating where we were last week) there just wasn’t an alternative.

Walking down to Sheffield station in the rain, someone(?) tentatively suggested we might do “ J for The Joiners Arms” instead but although there are lots of lovely walks to Bakewell, we’ve already done one in this walk-through-the-alphabet. It was really just a pathetic attempt to dodge the inevitable wetting we were in for, and we can’t be having pathetic and dry when there’s a classic walk to be done, can we?

So, getting off the train at Edale we walked through the tunnel ( just to enjoy the dryness of it)

and headed up the road past The Ramblers pub, past the church and up into the village of Grindsbrook Booth where we took the path near Newfold Cafe and opposite the school. 

(Please see E for Edale for more info on the different “Booths” of the Edale Valley.)

This path  is nothing less than the official start of the Pennine Way.

Although my memory of Pennine Way signage is that it can be less than perfect at times, the start is certainly well marked and this makes life very easy for us, all the way to Upper Booth and the Jacob’s Ladder path itself.

In fact there’s really no need for me to give any further directions here other than to follow the Pennine Way finger posts. 

Back in the early days of the Pennine Way , the route up Jacob’s Ladder was only a wet weather alternative start and the standard start was to walk up Grindsbrook and head straight across the top of Kinder to the Downfall.

It didn’t take long for this to aggravate the erosion problems of the Kinder plateau to a ridiculous degree, with many tales of unsuspecting and overladen Pennine Wayfarers getting stuck in the peat bogs and having to be hauled out by their companions.

Eventually someone twigged that besides not doing the reputation of our long distance footpath any favours, more importantly, the havoc being inflicted onto the environment was inexcusable, and slowly from then on, things began to change.

These days there’s so much dedication and impressive hard work going into caring for the peat moors, it’s heartwarming to see. 

Although there’s always lots more left to do, the progress is clearly visible in numerous places on the Kinder plateau and the Dark Peak, with mosses and plant life taking hold and various species of birds and other wildlife rediscovering the region each year.

To find out more about the rewilding of the moors and the thinking behind it, I’d recommend a visit to Moors for the Future’s website and better still, sign up for the regular newsletters from Bog Standard, (its worth it, if only for the name!)

At the foot of the Jacob’s Ladder path, sits a beautiful 17th century pack horse bridge over the River Noe.

The pack horse route came this way out of the Edale valley and over to Hayfield from medieval times right up until the mid 18th century. Over the years this route was used to transport commodities such as salt, lead and coal. 

Jacob was Jacob Marshall a “bragger” or pedlar who lived at Edale Head in the 18th century. He took wool to Stockport which he traded for other goods.

He allegedly cut steps into the steepest part of the hillside to make it easier for him to ascend from the Dale Head.

This meant Jacob could take a shortcut while his packhorse ponies ( who evidently knew the way on their own) followed the longer, winding way before joining forces once again at the top of the hill for the rest of the journey.

Once over the bridge the Bridleway heads off to the left just by the National Trust sign noting the restoration project of the 80s, whilst the footpath climbs straight up the hillside true to the legend.

Both paths are well maintained which must be no easy task given their popularity. Quite aside from those setting out along the Pennine Way the path is a firm favourite for all levels of hikers and would-be mountaineers whilst extreme mountain bikers are also known to tackle the Bridleway from time to time.

Today it’s very quiet with just a couple of runners enjoying the rain and the mud and ascending considerably more rapidly than we do.

Despite the poor weather or perhaps because of it, the climb up is incredibly atmospheric. Every so often rock outcrops loom through the cloud, or the clouds open up to give us fleeting views back across the Dale.

We notice another couple of walkers ahead who continue following the flagged path off to the right, but we take the left fork and continue straight ahead to a gate.

It’s here that the Pennine Way breaks off to the right and anyone going straight ahead through the gate would be following the aforementioned old pack horse trail on to Hayfield.

But, having gone through the gate, we take a left here, near to the wall, and begin to follow the flagged path which makes its way towards Brown Knoll.

Earlier thoughts of peat bogs and erosion spring back into my mind now as, for many years, Brown Knoll was infamous for its bog trotting challenges.

The stone flag path is amazing and so easy in comparison with the slither and squelch of yesteryear. 

Despite cloud, rain and a wind which is gathering strength, we are practically skipping along!

Apparently the path was laid around nine years ago in another initiative to save moorland from erosion. The stone flags came from Lancashire cotton mills that had been recently demolished. What an interesting life-cycle for a paving slab…and what a feat of engineering!

Besides being easy underfoot the path also makes navigating a lot easier than it used to be when this was an undefined morass of peat. Looks like I won’t be needing my whistle and compass today afterall.

Just keep an eye out for a junction where the flagged path heads off downhill and to the right, as we need to climb over the stile here and bear more to the left.

A few minutes after this the trig point which marks the summit of Brown Knoll looms eerily into view.

The paving slabs underneath it are an attempt to stop it from sinking into the peat. There’s been a few disappearing trig points here over the years and actually even today the surrounding moorland appears to be higher than the trig point itself and we wonder if it’ll still be here next time we come.

As we continue across the moor we spot the vague outline of an air shaft from the Cowburn railway tunnel over on our right and from time to time there’s a hint of how fantastic this walk would be on a fine day as we glimpse views over towards Hayfield on the one hand and the Edale valley and Mam Tor ridge on the other.

Now though, we’re back in the swirling mist. We’re just imagining this as the perfect setting for an anguished scene from Jane Eyre, when, simultaneously, the whistle of a train below and the engines of a plane above heading for Manchester airport bring us back to the 21st century with a jolt.

Quite soon we reach the junction with the Chapel Gate path, another old pack horse trail from Edale which lead to Chapel-en-le-Frith.

We had been thinking that at this point, we would take a brief right and then a left onto the ( ever breezy) Rushup Edge path which we were planning to follow to Mam Nick, over Mam Tor and along the ridge to Hollinscross. From there we’d have descended either to Castleton or Edale depending on bus or train times.

However, by now, we have had enough of the wind, and the thought of descending into more sheltered terrain and towards a pot of tea, is impossible to resist. 

So down we go , out of the wind and out of the cloud, with views of the Edale valley opening out before us.

Chapel Gate is another very obvious path ( as all today’s paths have been), just look out for a gateway to a path on your left after the steepest part of the descent as this will take you onto a field path towards Barber Booth and then back to the station.

Of course there had to be a bull in the field! ….but to be honest, it looked so wet and bedraggled, and it couldn’t even be bothered to stand up, let alone give chase to two wet and bedraggled hikers, even one with a red rucksack. What an anticlimax.

Turning right along the lane at the end of the path we walk  alongside the somewhat swollen River Noe for a few minutes before crossing left over the bridge and into Barber Booth.

Taking the back road through the few houses that make up this hamlet we spot a Victorian post box which absolutely provides the excitement that the bull encounter lacked…. Ever since my kids were little and spent their pocket money on a most obscure 

“I-Spy Book of Letterboxes” I’ve been an absolute sucker for V R post boxes. 

Continuing along the path over the railway line, signed clearly throughout for Edale station,

we muse over whether there are any C R post boxes, and before we know it, we’re sitting in the Penny Pot Cafe behind a splendid pot of tea and generous slice of cake.

Having repaired to the ladies room to struggle out of my waterproof over-trousers I re-emerge looking slightly more presentable and leaving the cafe we head once more through the ( still dry) tunnel under the track and hop aboard the Sheffield train.

A splendid Peakland day despite less than perfect weather conditions and a nice quick train ride home. And to think we could’ve been sitting around wasting our lives, in the Joiners Arms…

TRANSPORT 

Hope Valley train from Sheffield to Edale 

Return as above / bus 272 from Castleton for extended walk 

PUBS/CAFES

The Rambler’s Inn, Edale

Penny Pot Cafe Edale

HOW FAR?

Around 22k not counting extension

ROUTE SYNOPSIS 

Edale station, Pennine Way route to top of Jacob’s Ladder, Brown Knoll, Chapel Gate path , Edale ( or extend from Chapel Gate path to include Rushup Edge, Mam Tor and Hollinscross, Castleton )

DOGS?

Mostly suitable, one or two stiles and fields with livestock.

MAP

Dark Peak OL 1 

https://footpathapp.com/routes/E34E4481-E4B3-4129-9C8D-637F12903DB5?units=metric

“Where?” I hear you say….

Read on for the latest in our alphabet of walks.

We can confidently say that there are not many places around here beginning with the letter I. 

We’d almost settled on Ible, near Wirksworth, which would have been a lovely walk but when we realised we’d probably be spending longer on the bus than actually walking it was back to the maps in the hope that, if we stared hard enough, a closer destination might materialise. 

Going on the hunch that “Ing” is a bit of Old Norse and that there are quite a few “Ing” places further afield in Yorkshire we tried searching for “Ing” places in Derbyshire and, hey presto, up popped Ingmanthorpe, a hamlet near the Linacre Reservoirs; it was too good a chance to miss!

We began with a ride on the 76 bus to the last stop on Hemper Lane, just opposite Elwood Road and near the Moorview golf driving range.

After crossing the busy Greenhill Parkway we began our walk on what looked like the driveway to someone’s house and we were soon following an astro- turf path across the ( confusingly named) Dore & Totley Golf Course. 

Mindful of airborne golf balls we didn’t linger long but even so it was an impressively beautiful scene with the trees showing their autumn colours and the weather looking like it might pick up.

We were pretty soon off the actual golf course which made for a more relaxed pace and the path continued to be well defined, winding pleasantly with footbridges over a couple of streams and some good views over towards Coal Aston or back towards the Norton Water Tower. 

Before long we emerged onto Barnes Lane and found ourselves on the edge of Dronfield Woodhouse. 

Directly opposite the end of Barnes Lane on the other side of Carr Lane we spotted a finger post which set us happily on our mainly traffic-free way through Dronfield Woodhouse passing Gorsey Brigg and St Andrew’s Schools, the health centre and The Jolly Farmer pub ( too early for us to become jolly hikers ) before crossing Sindelfingen Park and following left briefly along Gosforth Drive before promptly leaving all the housing behind us and taking our next footpath towards Cowley and Barlow Lees.

The trees were even more vibrant by now as the day had turned beautifully sunny and decidedly warm.

This was simultaneously becoming a more and more beautiful walk with weather to match.

Another unexpected bonus was that the paths thus far were all well signed and defined giving us plenty of opportunity to look around as we walked.

At Cowley there’s a tiny chapel. The mission started in a private house in 1888 and five years later became established in its own building where it continues to be used today. Apparently the name of Cowley meant “The clearing of the charcoal burners, “ which maybe indicates a more industrial past but today apart from the chapel there’s not much else to be seen.

Once past the chapel the footpath continues to the next hamlet of Barlow Lees.

Where a path breaks off to the left, keep straight on.

After a field path look for a yellow arrow on an old barn to stay on track.

I was looking forward to seeing an old Manor House at Barlow Lees but on arriving realised I’d confused Barlow Lees with Barlow Woodseats on Johnnygate over the other side of the valley. 

Never mind, I’ll save it for another day!

After Barlow Lees the path continues to lose height. In the woods there are a few paths to choose from, so we guessed a bit and turned towards our left after passing a strange tree that had grown around a wall.

This worked out well as we soon popped out of the trees and found ourselves at the end of Commonside Fishing Lakes just opposite Lee Bridge.

I don’t think it’d matter too much if you took any of the woodland paths as long as you’re heading downhill and keeping generally to the left.

Crossing the lovely old bridge ( a Grade II listed 18th century packhorse bridge) we climbed up Smeltinghouse Lane turning left at the top into the village of Barlow. 

It kind of dawned on me whilst walking that there seems to be a Barlow sub-theme to this walk, and actually, on further investigation, it’s not that they were short on place names, it’s due to this area having been part of the huge and powerful Barlow Estate which was owned by the ancient Barlow family.

It seems the area had strategic importance for transportation and was a stop on the early packhorse routes 

with Lees Bridge serving as a crucial crossing point to Dronfield and Sheffield.

As industries developed in the area these routes helped transport coal to and from areas like Chesterfield.

Maybe today we are unwittingly retracing the steps of the past?

Passing the Church we soon spot today’s cafe stop, Hackney House Cafe & Deli,

Wow, this is a cafe to return to whether you’re into cakes or savouries, or both, …and aided and abetted by the always hoped for real pot of tea ( with extra hot water) providing the perfect thirst quencher, this place takes some beating.

So, suitably refreshed we continue on the next leg of our journey towards Ingmanthorpe.

The cafe is on the corner of Wilkin Hill and up we go towards the small cluster of houses known as Newgate. Do not take the first restricted byway on your left but do take the next footpath afterwards, before reaching the houses of Newgate. The path is not defined but just head right diagonally until you reach the field boundary and then, with the footpath now much clearer, head straight downhill to a footbridge over Sud Brook.

Our earlier luck with the paths now seemed to have petered out (as had the sunshine) and we wasted time after the footbridge looking for a path that wasn’t there and following one that was ( but not the right one!)

So, our advice after crossing the footbridge is to follow the path up the bank to the gate.

and then just take a diagonal line across the field aiming for a gate with a tall post at its left hand side.

Today the field was being grazed by sheep so if this is the case, it won’t be a problem. If crops have been sown you’ll just have to walk around the field boundary to get to the same gate.

BUT do not follow right along the top of the river bank wood and go through this stile

…….otherwise you will never get to Ingmanthorpe!

Back to the correct route; go through the gate with the pole and head straight along the cart track ( today we had cabbages for company in the field on our left )

and, soon in sight, the cluster of buildings ahead is none other than Ingmanthorpe, the I of today’s walk.

Well we weren’t expecting much, but at least last week’s Hollow Meadows had a road sign! In truth Ingmanthorpe might have been more of a place, back in the day, but it’s really just a couple of farms and one obliging house that owns up to being in the afore named hamlet. 

Well the cows look happy to see us anyway and it’s turning out to be a much better walk than we anticipated so we are definitely not complaining.

Our next unexpected bonus is a pavement along the B6050 which we follow to the right until a footpath takes off the next bend for us and leads us through a variety of rickety

gates/old yards and onto a lovely little lane. We turn left past Pratthall Farm and enjoy the far reaching views and the obvious track underfoot which we follow all the way down to the car park for Linacre Woods and Reservoirs. 

Although we are not going to see the reservoirs today, the next stretch heading gradually downhill through the trees of Linacre Woods is incredibly beautiful and one of the highlights of the day. 

At a crossroads of paths we continue straight ahead and uphill

and now on our left we can see the roofs of Woodnook and we start to feel as though we’re edging nearer to Chesterfield, the end point of today’s walk. 

The path we’re on emerges onto a fairly busy road and we turn left along it briefly.

We’re just on the edge of Ashgate but across the road is our next path which turns out to be very pleasant and open as we head towards Brookfield. Don’t be put off by the ambiguous sign, it’s a public footpath and in regular use too if today is anything to go by.

We’re not just on the edge of Chesterfield but also on the edge of the OS Map too!

Just before we “walk off the map “ we head left through more woodland

and as Google predicts we soon pass a scout hut. 

Glancing up ahead we get a far off view of Chesterfield’s crooked spire which is quite exciting and then we guess and google our way vaguely to the right where we come out onto Brookfield Avenue bang on target for Somersall Lane opposite, fronted by its quaint little lodge house.

We head downhill along the tree lined Somersall Lane until we reach the River Hipper at which point we turn left along the Hipper Valley Trail which is a cycle/pedestrian route which leads into the centre of Chesterfield.

Not only that but it’s really beautiful with it; slightly reminiscent of our Porter or Rivelin Valley walks and apologies for sounding like a scratched record but the trees….well yeah, you know, they’re really beautiful today!

After the very scenic Walton Dam we find ourselves at Morrisons where the Hipper disappears underground and is represented by a rather lovely fishy sculpture that no one seems to notice.

We  decide to stick to the back roads and head behind Morrisons along Bobbin Mill Lane. At this point the surroundings suddenly morph into something like a dystopian film set but hey, we’re walking into a sizeable town and actually some of the factories in the area are still functioning by the looks of it.

After a ginnel through to Goytside Road we continue onto Dock Walk where slimey segments of the old water leats that helped power the water wheels to power the mills in the area are still visible from time to time.

The “dock” of the place name however, is nothing to do with water. It was a railway sidings dock during the more industrial times of the town’s history.

As Dock Walk exits onto Boythorpe Road we head left towards the big road island and past MacDonalds to get onto West Bars.

We’re heading for New Beetwell Street and hoping for a 43/44 or failing that it’ll be a train from over the bypass at the station. 

But….the first bus stop we reach has nothing less than an X17 pulled up at it and it says it’s headed for Sheffield! Turns out the driver has been battling with the doors which are jammed open but just as we pole up he gets them working again and tells us to jump aboard. 

We really can’t believe our luck and it’s a very swift journey home at the end of our unusual day’s walk. It’s been brilliant and no less beautiful and interesting for being entirely outside of the National Park and semi urban in places.

This is definitely an area we’ll be looking to come back to and we hope we might have inspired you to try it too.

Especially recommended for Autumn ( because of the trees!)

I is for Ingmanthorpe

TRANSPORT 

Buses from Sheffield to Bradway 76, 76a, 76e

Buses back from Chesterfield 43, 44 and X17 or trains Chesterfield to Sheffield 

PUBS/CAFES

The Jolly Farmer, Dronfield 

Hackney House Cafe and Deli, Barlow

Pomegranate Coffee Shop, Chesterfield 

HOW FAR?

Around 22k

ROUTE SYNOPSIS 

Dore & Totley Golf Course, Dronfield Woodhouse, Crowley, Barlow, Ingmanthorpe, Linacre Woods, Ashgate, Brookside, Somersall, Hipper Valley Trail, Chesterfield.

DOGS?

Mostly suitable, one or two stiles and fields with livestock.

MAP

White Peak OL24 as far as Brookfields and then Google Maps.

https://footpathapp.com/routes/1162037C-0F73-4FD6-ACC6-9CA80595C16C?units=metric